Iceland: Jökusárlón to Snæfellsnes Peninsula

Looking through the pictures from Iceland this week has been so refreshing. Switzerland is experiencing a freak heat wave this week and remembering these cool days is a good reminder that things won’t always be this sweaty.

We woke up early for our third full day of the road trip to drive 10 minutes on Highway 1 to Jökusárlón. It’s an ice lagoon that began formed as the Breiðamerkurjökull glacier started receding from the ocean. As of today the glacier has receded 7 kilometers and it’s only moving further away. In another fifty years, they expect the glacier to have completely eroded. It’s incredible to think we are seeing something that our children’s children may never have a chance to see. It made our visit feel sacred. We booked a tour through Zodiac Boat Tours and I would highly recommend it. We left on the first tour of the day (8:45 arrival, 9:15 departure) and we would also recommend that, if you can, you go as early as possible. We were the only people out on the lagoon and it was truly magnificent. The water was so calm and the feeling of isolation really complemented the whole experience. This boat tour was our favorite part of the whole trip (I really mean it this time!) The blue color is the most recently exposed ice, meaning that all the icebergs you see with blue have fallen from the glacier (or broken off from an even larger iceberg) in the last 24 hours. As we sat out by the edge of the glacier we could hear what sounded like thunder but what was really icebergs breaking apart and crashing into the water. Furthermore, when we got closer to some of the larger icebergs we could hear the frantic drip-drip-drip of the icebergs melting. It sounded like rain! We didn’t see anything major but we heard the transformations happening all around us. The black is of course ash from the surrounding volcanoes. The layers and striations tell of a volatile and storied history.

In the picture directly above you can see where the ice changes from an icy blue into white. This berg had just flipped and was now exposing it’s underbelly more or less. The bergs are regularly breaking apart and shifting their center of gravity. It’s a very cool sight.

There were only 6 of us in the boat and we were allowed to walk around a bit (though the boats are really pretty small) and take as many pictures as we liked. Our driver was so knowledgeable and talked to us about the history of not only the lagoon, but of Iceland as a whole. Again, I cannot recommend this tour highly enough. We were out on the water for just over an hour and it was truly magical. Because of the shifting tide, many of the icebergs had clumped together at the mouth of the lagoon and were making their way out under the bridge. We went over to the beach to check out the remains of the icebergs that had recently made it out. What a morning! It was so invigorating to be out on the water and see such beauty. It was unlike anything we’d ever seen or done before. Isn’t that the best part about travel? Being exposed to so many extraordinary sights and experiences. It’s one of the best feelings. It was about 11:30 when we hit the road again, this time heading west. Unfortunately, unless you take the ring road around the entirety of the island, there’s no way to get back west without retracing your steps. So we covered much of the same ground that we had the day before, but we didn’t really mind. It’s about the journey, not just the destination.

We were headed to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, located just south of the Western Fjords and north of Reykjavik. I got the idea to visit this area based on this blog and I am so happy we did. It was beautiful and desolate and really made us feel like we were in another world. I loved it. More hot dogs for lunch and playlists on the go. We ran into some rain on this day, but nothing terrible. The drive from Jökusárlón to the peninsula took about 7 hours, and that includes a couple breaks for stretching our legs and taking pictures of sheep and waterfalls. It sounds like a long time and it did feel long at some points, but it was totally doable and especially pleasant after we passed Reykjavik and began seeing new scenery. Once you get onto the peninsula you can take a surrounding ring road, Highway 54, or take some mountain passes to cut across. These are relatively short, maybe a 10 minute drive, but they are wonderful! Glacial lakes, hidden waterfalls, gloomy clouds–take the mountain pass. We stayed at The Old Post Office Guesthouse in Grundarfjörður, which is a fishing village situated on the north side of the peninsula. It was a nice little town with one hotel, one guesthouse, one restaurant, one grocery store, you get the idea. We stayed there mostly because it was one of the only towns with any availability, and while sharing a bathroom with four other rooms (dorm style!) isn’t our first choice, it ended up being a nice place to stay. The local restaurant, which is right across the street from the hotel, served really good food. We ate their both nights and tried meat stew, fish pasta, fish and chips, and one more thing I can’t recall. It was filled with locals and tourists alike and made for a nice place to wind down after a long day of travel. I’ll share the final part of the road trip, exploring the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, later next week. If you’d like to see more of our trip to Iceland here are a few links:

Reykjavik and the Golden Circle

Hella to Vík to Jökusárlón

On Fear

Iceland: Hella to Vík to Jökusárlón

This day was arguably the most tiring of the trip. We had a long day on the road and had a lot of sights we wanted to see along the way. One might think that getting out every half hour or hour to stretch ones legs and breathe in some fresh air might be rejuvenating, but anyone who has ever done the slow saunter through a city for hours on end knows that the stop-and-go method of travel is truly the most taxing.

That said, it was an incredible day! What began as a very misty, foggy, rainy day turned into a gorgeous day for a drive with bursts of sun coming out in the late afternoon. This post is bursting with pictures so follow after the jump if you’d like to see and read more about our second full day on the road.

On Fear

I don’t consider myself someone to be overwhelmed with anxiety or a generally fearful person, but I do have some irrational fears than can feel suffocating at times. When we were in Iceland, one of my fears kept cropping up. It sounds so trivial that it’s almost not worth mentioning, but I am honestly really afraid of slipping and falling.

I’m not afraid of the embarrassing nature of slipping and falling, although I did have one of those traumatic moments in high school where I slipped on some ice on my way to the driveway to meet a car full of friends. Of course–everyone being seventeen and all–my friends (or should we say “friends”?) laughed hysterically and I was more or less shamed into the car. That’s the stuff high school is made of!

Anyway, it’s not the mortification that scares me, it’s the freak accident that I can’t get out of my head: what if I slip and fall and break my wrist? what if I slip and fall in front of a bus? what if I’m going down a hill and never stop slipping and falling? what if I slip and fall and go into the waterfall and then everyone else goes into the waterfall? It escalates into absurdity rather quickly, but like so many worries and concerns, it’s not the sensible we’re so often preoccupied with. My mind can go faster and further than I’d like into some pretty dark corners. My body tingles and sometimes I start shaking, or my body shuts down and I feel paralyzed. As you can imagine, it’s a rather uncomfortable situation to be in–and to explain.

In the above picture I was battling with those tense and anxious feelings. We had stopped at a scenic overpass and stumbled upon this waterfall while walking around. Adam wanted to get ever closer and walk around a narrow slope to get a better view of the falls. My instinct was to say “no” and keep saying it forever until we were back in the car, but I managed to get myself this close to the water’s edge. I didn’t follow Adam down the footpath but I felt brave for letting go of my insecurities.

It’s hard to tell Adam and others that I don’t want to or can’t do seemingly ordinary adventures. I know it has to be frustrating when I say no to seeing the extraordinary view or going on the big hike. I don’t like saying it any more than he probably likes hearing it. But that doesn’t override feelings of panic and often baseless anxiety.

I’m trying to work on being more confident in my decisions and beliefs. To be honest, it felt good to trust that I could walk up to the edge of a cliff and know that I was grounded enough to stay right there on the cliff’s edge; a freak wind wasn’t going to push my off, nor was the ground going spontaneously crumble beneath my feet. It can seem silly to feel brave at 28 years old or however old you are, but truthfully it’s just as exhilarating now as it was when I was 5.

Iceland: Reykjavik and The Golden Circle

After doing as much research as we could during our limited planning time, Adam and I decided that we only wanted to spend one full day in Reykjavik. It’s a small town that’s an interesting amalgamation of fishing culture, high-end sportswear shopping, and active nightlife. We stayed in an airbnb in town and liked being able to walk everywhere. We were right by the main shopping street and Hallgrímskirkja, the largest church in Iceland.

We walking around a bit when we got there Saturday evening and immediately set off for Starters (Forétta Barrin in Icelandic) for dinner.

Adam and I lament the lack of any kind of food scene here in Bern. Coming from Charleston this seems less than fair given how forward thinking the food culture was in the Southern city, but still. Every menu here is a variation on the same meat, sauce, and potatoes theme, and it would be nice to have a wider variety of options.

So we were thrilled to eat at Starters. They have lots of different plates for sharing (or not so much: it was hard for me to give up my arctic char, as I knew it was difficult for Adam to grant me a few bites of his perfectly-cooked horse steak), all made up of unique pairings and ingredients. There’s nothing on the menu you can’t pronounce but we still felt that everything was special. We’d highly recommend it.

After dinner we grabbed a couple beers at Kaldi, a cozy beer bar in the center of town. It was so bizarre to walk around well into the evening and have it still be so light outside! Even as we were walking home at 11:30 pm the sun was shining off to the northwest. Therefore, if you’re traveling during the summer months (late May, June, July, early August) and you’re hoping to get any sleep I highly suggest bringing an eye mask with you, especially if your accommodations don’t have blackout shades or the like. Ear plugs are an essential travel staple for us as well.

On Sunday we grabbed coffee and a waffle at Mokka (by the way, custom dictates that you spread jam on the waffle and eat it like toast. who knew?!). We read back issues of British newspapers and made a very loose plan for the day. We walked to Hallgrímskirkja and went up the elevator to see the best views of the city and beyond. It’s a quick ride up and about $5 if you’re interested.

Though many of the stores were closed we did stop in Geysir, a beautifully curated shop filled with wool sweaters, designer clothing, and just about anything that would make one nostalgic for pastoral (or urban) life in Iceland. It’s a pricey boutique, but many of the pieces look timeless.

We ate a leisurely lunch at Prikid before walking to Harpa and the harbor. Harpa is the city’s main concert hall and the architecture is incredible. Covered in geometric, three-dimensional windows, the structure is not short of views or photographic opportunities. It would be lovely to catch a show here, but you can also take a guided tour if you’re interested in seeing the main halls and stages within.

Afterward we strolled around, popped in the photography museum, shopped a flea market, and ate a hot dog because one must, they’re everywhere! We had one almost every day.

That evening we had dinner at Frederiksen Ale House. They had excellent fish and chips and a great beer selection. We called it an early night and headed back to the apartment to do some road trip planning for the next day.

I have a few tips for self-drive tours in Iceland, which we would highly, highly recommend. A lot of people might feel more comfortable with the structure of a guided tour on a bus or minivan, but we preferred to drive ourselves so we could go our own way, take our time, and make whatever stops we wanted. But there are a few things you should keep in mind:

• The roads are narrow and usually only two lanes, even on the main highways (outside of Reykjavik). There are no shoulders either so one should take extra precaution when driving in inclement weather, which can come on suddenly. Thankfully we never went through any terrible storms, but in the colder months I know sudden snowstorms are not uncommon.
• Only stop at turn-offs or designated scenic points. It’s tempting to want to stop and take pictures of everything, but given how narrow the roads are and lack of shoulder, it’s important that you don’t stop on the road and hop out of your car. Every few kilometers or so there are turn-offs and parking areas for just this reason so try to use those instead of putting yourself and others in danger.
• Try to rent a 4-wheel drive if possible. It’s a little more pricey, but the extra security might be worth it to you.
• Don’t bother with toilet paper…unless you need to use the restroom every thirty minutes. There are plenty of places to stop along the way–gas stations, tourist stops, etc. We bought some to use just in case but never did. Plus, there aren’t many trees in Iceland so it would have been a bit tricky logistically….
• Opt for a GPS or mobile hot-spot. We used Google maps on our phone to find our way and it was immensely helpful to have internet in the car. Despite how desolate the country is, you can get a pretty good signal to help you stay on track, or get off the beaten path. It is important, however, to remember how to get your bearings by simply looking around you.
• Bring snacks and lots of water! Iceland is very expensive and stopping for lunch on your road trip can really add up. We packed sandwiches and snacks to eat on the go, supplementing with hot dogs as we went. Apples, cherry tomatoes, chips or crackers, cereal bars, and gummy bears were all handy to have around.
  • On a semi-related note, stop in Duty Free upon arrival. Alcohol is very expensive and we saw everyone stopping here to pick up wine and beer before grabbing their luggage. We grabbed a few of each ourselves (plus some mini bottles of Icelandic vodka for a little taste test) and saved quite a bit of money had we decided to buy it in town.

 

We started our road trip as most people do: visiting the Golden Circle. It’s a popular route with three main stops along the way: Thingvellir National Park, Geyser, and Gullfoss. This post ended up being the most helpful for us because of the layered map and suggestions for detours. Instead of taking Highway 1 to 35 like most people do, we took Highway 1 to 435 and cut across the middle of the tour circle, if you will. As the post mentions, it really was otherworldly and beautiful. It was the perfect way to begin our drive. We kept saying, “I can’t believe this is real” along the way–and said it through the remainder of our trip.

 

Thingvellir National Park is noted for its historical and geographical significance. It’s the site of the world’s first parliament, established around 930 AD. The North American and European tectonic plates are also pulling apart here and you can see some incredible formations. It’s a large park, but there is a stopping point for visitors right by the lake, which is more or less in the center of the park. You can get out and walk around or even scuba if you’d like to see the underwater fissures. It was cold, rainy, and windy this day so we didn’t stay long, but I imagine this would be a lovely stop for a picnic and hiking if you wanted to stay longer.

A quick note about rain gear:

I bought this jacket in Bern last fall when I was in need of a new rain jacket. It was advertised as waterproof and since buying it several months ago it had proved to be nothing but. When we got to Iceland, however, I learned the hard way that it is water resistant, not waterproof. So it got pretty wet and stayed wet, which was uncomfortable. I thought about buying a new jacket while we were there, but after looking at several options we decided that for once it was actually cheaper to buy it in Switzerland. SO, invest in the right gear. I had waterproof pants that were a big help (they were great windbreakers as well) and waterproof hiking boots that were essential. The rocks can gets very slippery when wet and you’ll be doing a lot of walking to see various sites. And layers! I usually wore a t-shirt or long-sleeve shirt, sweater/sweatshirt, fleece, and jacket. Plus a scarf and a hat, pretty much the whole time. I’d also wear jeans and slip waterproof pants over them when I knew we’d be visiting waterfalls or exposed to the rain for long periods of time. You’re probably spending quite a bit of money for this trip and making sure you have the right clothing and footwear is part of that. It’s no fashion show over there; everyone is geared up and just trying to stay protected from the elements, which can be harsh.

 

A little soggy, we got back in the car and headed to Geysir, where the world’s first geyser erupted. It’s been dormant now for quite a while, but it’s close neighbor Strokkur erupts every ten minutes or so. The sideways rain and blustery temperatures made this stop less than pleasant, but we managed to see it three times while we stood. Do be sure to stand upwind : )

We stopped for a hot tea in the restaurant to warm up. There’s a huge gift shop with lots of clothing, gear, and souvenirs for everyone.

 

Road signs will point you on to Gullfoss, which is about 15 minutes away. This stop was almost comical given how cold, windy, and rainy it was when we arrived. It’s the largest waterfall in Europe so we wanted to marvel at it a bit longer, but I think we stayed no more than 15 minutes before hitting the road. It is very beautiful and powerful though so I hope you get a chance to stay longer.

That evening we stayed at Hestheimar Horse Farm just outside of Hella. It was about an hour drive from Gulfoss, situated off of Highway 1. It was secluded and serene and I absolutely loved staying here. We were the only people at the main house so it felt very cozy and personal. After grabbing dinner in nearby Hella (about a 10-minute drive) we changed into pajamas and the complimentary robes and played cards and drank wine in the dining room. We watched the horses through the window and listened to the wind howl outside. It’s one of my favorite memories from the trip. (For reference on daylight hours, the picture of Adam below was taken at 10 pm!)

They have over 160 horses on the farm and are always up for a ride. We mentioned the next morning at breakfast that we’d like to go out for an hour and they were ready to go less than an hour later. It was just Adam and me (his first real ride!) and again, it was very special. I love horses and this was a priority for me.

As for the timing of the Golden Circle, which was something that I was very curious about, on average, it takes about 6 hours or so, stops included. We left Reykjavik at 9:30 and stopped at Reykjavik Roasters for a coffee and breakfast before hitting the road. We arrived at Hestheimar around 6:00. So, about 8 hours? If you are returning to Reykjavik, as many do, then it might take less time. If you have gorgeous weather, then this might take more. I would definitely plan a full day for the tour.

I’ll be sharing the next big day of our road trip next week!

 

Back from Iceland

We’re back from our week in Iceland and I can hardly get my head on straight, not that it was on too tight before we left. I definitely thought that yesterday was Father’s Day, hence this post last Thursday. We had friends over for burgers after the big run and I wished one of them a Happy Father’s Day and he and his wife looked at me like I was nuts, which I am sometimes, yesterday included. Anyway, gratitude is good any day of the week and we should all be thanking the fathers in our life all the time : )

So, back to Iceland: it was amazing. I mean, otherwordly. There was so much beauty everywhere, it was almost overwhelming at times. It was cold, windy, rainy, sunny, slightly warm-ish, breezy, cool, and light all the time. We watched the sun set one night at 12:14 in the morning and knew that it would rise again only 2 hours later. It was so disorienting and made for the most magical lighting.

We drove over 1800 kilometers in 5 days. We listened to countless albums and playlists, plus a little of my own inventive singing and sometimes just silence. We took over 1200 pictures, which I will somehow consolidate into a few impactful travelogues for you. (How?!?) We rode horses and cooed over the sweetest lambs and sheep. We ate buckets of seafood: arctic char, scallops, shrimp, and an entire cod’s head. We walked on the beach, stood on cliffs, and took a boat ride in an iceberg lagoon.

It was the craziest week of travel. There were so many highlights and moments where I thought, “I will remember this forever.” If Iceland isn’t on your travel list, I would highly suggest adding it and moving it as close to the top as you can stand. It’s incredible. And this is coming from a girl whose ideal locale is a warm, sunny beach.

How are you? How was your week? I hope it was lovely, considering that this is one the nicest times of the year. It’s just warm enough for good fun and the days are their longest. I love it.

I’m in and out this week so posting will be spotty, but I’d love to think I’ll get my act together. As I mentioned last week our friends are in town and we will be joining them on a little tour de Suisse. Wishing you and yours a happy summer season.

 

Off for the Week!

We’re headed to Iceland tomorrow! This is that impulsive trip I mentioned a couple weeks ago and everything about coordinating it has been entirely last-minute. We booked every accommodation less than a week before leaving. We weren’t sure about our rental car until Tuesday. This is, in short, not how I like to travel. I’m a planner almost to a fault.

But! Man alive, I am so looking forward to this trip and I know Adam is too. We just need a break. So last-minute plans be damned, we are going to Iceland!

Our plan is to spend two days in Reykjavik and then head out on the open (slightly scary-sounding) road. We want to visit the southern coast, ride horses, visit the western coast and Snæfellsnes Peninsula, and finally stop at the Blue Lagoon before heading back to the airport next weekend. I’m looking forward to relaxing in the evenings and feeling invigorated by the solitude of the countryside. There are 20 hours of sunshine every day this time of year. It’s going to be such an adventure!

I actually had a bit of a hard time finding a lot of information about Iceland, specifically itineraries and tips so if you have any I would love to hear them! This will be a totally new scenery for us, which is very exciting.

I do have a couple posts planned for next week (go me!) so it won’t be totally silent. I hope you have a great week and look for a few updates from me on Instagram.

 

(images 1 and 4 via the Charleston-based photographer Olivia Rae James // images 2 and 3 via NISHAANTISHU)

 

Weekly Traditions

Every Tuesday at 5:30 my friend Nicole and I meet up for beers at Barbiere. I have just come from tutoring two seven-year-olds and she has just finished a music class with her two-year-old daughter. We’re both in need of a little libation.

We usually stay for two beers (I buy the first round and she buys the second) but sometimes one of us has to bail early depending on her train schedule or my need to run to the grocery store before it closes in order to grab dinner. Our goodbyes may be harried at times, but I look forward to the conversation and tradition every week.

Last night I was talking to my dad about just such thing and he was telling me how much he’s anticipating a week-long fishing trip with his brother that’s coming up in a few weeks. Work is totally nuts for him at the moment and he likes having something to look forward to. We all need to have something that we look forward to, whether it be as simple as an hour get-together with a friend or a trip with a brother who lives across the country.

Similarly, every Wednesday morning Adam and I grab coffee and breakfast at a cafe downtown (we currently favor Adriano’s because of the outdoor seating). I usually read The International New York Times after he leaves to go to work and enjoy a leisurely morning. It’s one of my favorite parts of the week.

Sometimes I get really lonely living here. I can feel really low, especially when I’m feeling homesick or insecure. Having these moments to look forward to makes such a big difference in my day-to-day life. When my friend Nancy was still living here we made a point to get together a couple times a week, even if it was to accompany each other on errands. I’m now in a dinner club of sorts with a couple other women I’ve met through my club and we try to meet once a month and grab burgers or Lebanese food. Setting up little traditions can make all the difference in a place that doesn’t always feel like home.

What about you? Do you have any standing dates? What do you look forward to every week?

 

Bon Voyage!

Adam and I head back to the US today. We’ll be spending the next two weeks there, visiting family and spendings lots of quality time with Adam’s dad and mom. It simultaneously feels like no time has passed since we left in March and like it has been the longest year of our life. 

As I have mentioned before, there are so many emotions that encompass what the last five months have been like for us. And every time I think of the chaos and overwhelming feelings I’ve experienced, I remember that they are nothing compared to Adam’s mom. This past Sunday we were of course thinking about our moms and reminiscing about what incredible women they are. Adam’s mom has been so impossibly strong, brave, and courageous through everything and she is a true inspiration to all of us. I can’t wait to give her a big squeeze!

As in the past, this space will probably be pretty quiet for the rest of the month while we’re at home. I might pop in and out but I can’t say what the next two weeks look like so I won’t promise anything. There are loads of archives, however, if you feel inspired to go digging through them : )

Lastly, you know I’m not one for inspirational quotes (I seem to remember posting at length about it here, specifically saying, “These false mantras don’t do a lot for me and sort of make me question the sincerity of those who purport them.” So, let’s just all commit to not committing to anything), but I may have found one that’s really sweet and beautiful and perfect for right now.

There are a lot of directions I could take this in my own life, but I let it sit with you for a bit. That Maya Angelou, she just got us, didn’t she?

I hope you are doing well and feeling well and letting your own light shine bright for others. When you are feeling taxed, what is your initial response? When you are feeling overwhelmed and sad, for whom do you reach? When you are joyous and abundant with happiness and pleasure, how do you celebrate?

Wishing you and yours a very happy spring xo

(image 1 via // image 2 via)

Slovenia: Ljubljana

Way back in February when it was cold and miserable, and the cold and misery felt like it would last forever, Phil organized this weekend trip to Ljubljana. Swiss Air was having a giant sale and the ticket prices were too good to pass up. Of course, we were in Kansas overwhelmed by all the events that had taken place, but still we knew this would be a good idea; it would be something to look forward to. It turned out to be just the thing we needed, a quick trip out of town to somewhere completely new. It’s yet another case of just go, do, don’t over-think it.

The weather on Friday could not have been more perfect. The capital city is easily walkable and charming with its winding river and numerous sidewalk cafes. Ljubljana certainly thrives on the cafe culture and we were more than happy to follow the locals’ lead and walk around, stopping for food, a cold beer, or just a moment’s rest. We stayed at an airbnb in the center of town (just around the corner from that church above) and it was very easy to get around.

Our host had recommended Open Kitchen for lunch, an open air market with food stalls highlighting area restaurants and specialty shops. You can get a variety of small plates or entire meals and relax on the steps with the rest of the city. According to our host, it is very popular at the moment, but it runs from mid-March through October. We would highly recommend it.

We had a little bit of everything–Slovenian, Egyptian, Chinese (when in Rome…)–before heading toward the castle. The medieval castle sits on a stately hill above the city and offers a beautiful panorama from the viewing tower. There was a large event at the top that prevented us from seeing a lot of the courtyard and other parts of the fortress, but overall it’s worth a visit. You can walk up or take a funicular for a modest fee. Can you guess which option we selected? : )

Of course even if you do decide to take the funicular, you’ll eventually come to a big stairwell that leads to the top of the tower, though it pales in comparison to some castle and church stairwells in Europe. This particular double-helix was a genius idea as you never had to run into people or do any awkward maneuvering while one person goes up and the other does down.

We walked around a bit after that before finally relaxing at one of the ubiquitous outdoor cafes. The architecture in the city is interesting given the storied history. Slovenia is of course a relatively young country. In 1991 it split from Yugoslavia to become its own independent country. It has had dalliances with the Roman, Austro-Hungarian, and Ottoman Empires, and the city doesn’t quite seem to lock into any one of those ideas. Rather, and perhaps this is the main point, it is a melting pot of ideas, architecture, personalities, and influences. Its bordered by Italy, Austria, Croatia, and Hungary and it feels like a little bit of all of those. It is definitely European but decidedly its own.

After a brief catnap we walked around a bit more in search of the happy hour crowd–a rustling, bustling spot where we could do some prime people-watching. It was a little more touristy than we would normally would go for, but sometimes those end up being the perfect places for what we might consider to be anthropology, a study of the natives.

That evening we had dinner at Julija, which was fantastic. We ate outdoors and tasted a variety of typical Slovenian flavors, as well as some tried and true favorites (gnocchi, I’m looking at you). We retired pretty soon after that, totally beat from our day exploring the city. I’ll share some pictures from the rest of our trip later this week.

Another Hike Up the Gurten

While its known as a mountain to most, the Gurten is really a big, steep hill. You can reach the top in about an hour if you walk at a steady, consistent pace, but some people run it (up and down) over the lunch hour. By any Swiss standard the journey wouldn’t be considered a hike, but we’re American so we’ll count this as a fitness hike and reward ourselves with a frosty brew.

Last Sunday was the perfect day for just such a “hike”/walk. It was sunny and temperate and there were just enough buds on the flowers and trees to give you hope that spring is here to stay. In the past week trees and bushes have taken a dramatic turn and really opened up. I swear I saw leaves actually growing the other afternoon while I was sitting on the balcony.

We packed a picnic (and a book) and lounged on the grass for a while before taking an alternate route down. It all felt very Swiss, which was wonderful. We’ve experienced a lot of ups and downs lately and feeling like you belong in a culture that is normally pretty closed off and isolated can boost morale considerably. In that way, the Gurten holds a special little place in my heart.

 

p.s. guess who we saw at the bottom? these ridiculously cutie ponies!!