Over Easter weekend, Phil, Adam and I, along with our friends Paige and Bryce, went to Copenhagen for the long weekend. Phil was the only person who had been there before so it was a treat for us all to see a new city together. It was cool and modern and bustling compared to Bern. I loved the architecture, those beautiful bike lanes, and the friendly people. Also, we ate such good food while we were there!
You may remember that we went to Amsterdam over Easter weekend two years ago and were pleasantly surprised by how alive the city was during the holiday weekend. Copenhagen was a bit different, and I think we were all surprised to find how seriously they took the religious holiday: stores were closed all day Thursday, Friday, and Sunday (though that’s normal), and though we left on Sunday night, it appeared as if they would be closed on Monday as well. So! That’s all to say, if you’re planning on a religious holiday weekend there, be prepared for a lot to be closed.
After checking into our Airbnb, which was on the border between the Frederiksberg and Nørrebro neighborhoods, we rented bikes and cycled to the Nyhavn port. The beautiful old port house have since been renovated into touristic restaurants and shops, but it’s fun to see some of the old ships lined up. This is also a great spot to start a canal tour if that’s something you’d like to do.
We found a couple of nearby trampolines for a quick bounce before heading to Christiania, a self-proclaimed autonomous district in the center of the city. Here you will find commune-style living, wooded pathways, cheap beer, and a “green light” district. It’s a quirky (and popular) place to visit during the day.
After a long day of cycling and walking around we had dinner at Thai Pan, a cozy restaurant right around the corner from our apartment. It has a view of the pond and I imagine it would be a great place to sit outside when it’s warm. I can say, however, that their food was excellent if you’re looking for delicious Thai.
Friday was cool and drizzly so after a slam-dunk brunch at Mirabelle we cycled over to Den Blå Planet, Denmark’s national aquarium to escape the less-than-pleasant weather. Everyone, and I mean everyone, had this exact same idea and the aquarium was absolutely packed. I think we were the only adults there without children, and it was certainly an experience to visit the place during peak hours on a cold and rainy holiday. There were a few tanks of note (I loved watching the sea otters groom themselves), but it was really too crowded to enjoy much.
We headed back into town (note: you can take your bike onto the metro during all hours, except during rush hour, 5-7pm) and landed at Mikkeller for some tasty Danish beers. It’s a very cozy beer bar and brewery and we stayed here, mostly to enjoy an adult-only atmosphere, for a couple of rounds. Øl & Brød, the restaurant by the same group, is located next door and the menu looks fantastic if you’re looking to stay in the neighborhood for dinner.
That night we had a special dinner at RADIO. It’s a modern and relaxed restaurant located near the Forum metro stop, and three blocks from our apartment. Jesper, the head chef, once worked as a sous-chef for Noma, which was named the best restaurant in the world three years in a row. One can choose either a three- or five-course dinner, with optional wine or juice pairings. The three of us opted for five courses and loved it. I think we all agreed it was one of the best meals we’ve ever had: warm squid and celeriac “pasta”; cod with fried chicken skins, grilled romaine, and lumpfish roe; beetroot with dehydrated olives and smoked cheese; free range pork (so good it will make you weep) with grilled leeks; and carrots with camomile ice cream, caramel and meringues. The menu changes every two weeks so you’re always eating the freshest ingredients and they take such care with it all. It was a gorgeous presentation in a very comfortable restaurant and we’d highly recommend the experience.
Our friends Paige and Bryce arrived from Geneva on Saturday at noon so we met at Torvehallerne KBH, a giant food hall located just outside the Nørreport metro stop. Inside each of the markets are dozens of food stalls carrying produce and ready-made items you can enjoy on the outdoor seating. Four of us went for Vietnamese, mostly because it’s something that is both delicious and impossible to find in Switzerland, and the bahn mis and steamed buns did not disappoint. Phil got fish and chips, which were just as delicious. We actually ended up here twice and it could easily serve as a meeting place or just a fun spot to relax and sample lots of local fare.
After lunch we walked to Stroget, a neighborhood packed with shops and boutiques. My friend Paige was specifically hoping to visit Royal Copenhagen’s flagship store and we managed to walk around inside and each pick up a matching vase. I had never heard of the gorgeous china before, but I’m happy to have a new, unique pursuit : )
Lots more cycling ensued over the afternoon–we really earned all those treats– and we ended up at Warpigs Brewpub in the meatpacking district. The pub is a sort of sister restaurant and brewery to Mikkeller, so you’ll find a lot of the same beer flavors and vibes. What is totally unique to this place is their Kansas City barbecue! We sample some ribs and pimento cheese with hushpuppies (damn!), but they had loads of delicious-smelling barbecue on the menu and it would have been so fun to try it all. They have four different sauces–Carolina Gold, Kansas City, Alabama White, and Texas–and we were proud to discover they refill the Kansas City sauce the most. Obviously!
Dinner was just around the corner at Paté Paté and it was another big hit. They specialize in modern European dishes, served in a small-plates, tapas style. We went a little nuts and ordered a bunch of different plates for the table (smoked salmon, turbot, oysters, lamb, Danish mozzarella), yet still managed to finish it all, plus two desserts. Everything was outstanding, but we especially love the vibrant, boisterous atmosphere. It’s hard to find a place in Switzerland (at least in Bern) that has a young, hip energy, where you can be loud and a little ridiculous. It was fun to just have a big night out, which makes us sound like a bunch of old farts, but whatever ; )
Phil flew out early Sunday morning, so the four of us went to The Standard for a fancy brunch, complete with edible flowers and a view of the canal. Technically we ate at Almanak, one of the four restaurant/bars in The Standard. It had a contemporary and cool interior and great views.
Afterward we walked through the botanical garden and geological museum. As I mentioned earlier, not much was open on Easter Sunday so there were actually quite a lot of people walking through the garden and park, which was nice. We had wanted to go to the Arken Museum of Modern Art, but didn’t budget enough time. We’ll be sure to check it out, as well as the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, on our next visit.
Adam and I flew out that evening and arrived back in Bern around midnight–long day! But, Copenhagen, we loved you! What a fun city with so much to do. I’d love to go back in warmer weather and enjoy sitting outdoors and maybe visiting the seaside.
Have you been? What else would you recommend? It’s such an easy flight from Zurich and I can definitely imagine visiting this city again, perhaps as a part of a larger Scandinavian tour.
A couple of helpful guides: