On the Weekend

This past weekend was absolutely perfect. After having been out of town for the last three, I was looking forward to taking it easy and indulging in a few of my favorite leisure activities: coffee in bed, magazines on the balcony, naps in the sun, and decadent meals (fried chicken and macaroni and cheese, anyone?? I swear they’re South Beach-approved! ; )

And while it’s hard to put big expectations on the weekend (I WILL relax and we WILL have fun!), everything was just as I’d hoped it would be. In fact, and it’s hard to use this word without sound insincere or glib, it was perfect. It was such a lovely weekend. Yet we didn’t do anything glamorous or spectacular. We had homemade coffee and meals, we found a body of water and swam in it, we read. Everything we did this weekend we’ve done in the US and it all cost very little or no money.

It’s funny trying to explain our life to other people. What do you do? You went where? How? When are you moving back? Will you have kids over there? But really, when are you moving back? Living abroad is of course exciting and novel and at times extraordinarily special. But it is also very similar to the life we lived in Charleston. Sometimes it feels like I could be doing a lot of this in Kansas City.

That’s to say I’ve been spending a great deal of time trying to no longer divorce “my life in Switzerland” from “my life.” They are not mutually exclusive. Life didn’t really start when we moved here and it won’t really start when we move back. It’s just still going and will continue to with varying degrees of success and whimsy. I’m feeling very content with how things are right now. I love my life and it makes me feel good to be so happy. I understand that I’m lucky to have this opportunity, lucky to feel so content, and I am embracing it heartily and with heaps of gratitude.

I’m happy right now because I love spending time with Adam and pursuing activities and pleasures that I truly enjoy. It has little to do with the fact that I live in Switzerland or the fact that I don’t live in America. I suppose I’m waxing poetic on it now because I’ve spent a lot of time being lonely or homesick and it’s as though I’ve come up for a big gulp of fresh air and I can breathe a tremendous sigh of relief. Life is good.

I’d just like to give a big shout-out to the weekend for making it everything I wanted it to be and more. And I’d like to document this reminder to myself: when it gets tough–and it will–look to the little joys and amusements that make you feel good right this minute.

(images from around Bern)

Back from the West

 

I arrived home yesterday after a tremendously spectacular trip to the west. It was everything, everything I wanted and even more than that–not surprising given how wonderful all my beautiful friends are.

Unfortunately, it ended in a semi-disaster that included a cancelled flight, a five-hour wait at baggage claim for reclaimed luggage that never showed, a surprise layover in Denver, and luggage that at this moment is still missing with all my treasures inside. Hence the nachos and beer above. When I’m stressed, I have no control over judgment or calories. As the cab driver told me on our way to the hotel by the Denver airport, though, “this happens to everyone so it’s not that big of a deal.” Ah, perspective. You’re right there when I need you.

Travel snafus are bound to happen (train to the Amsterdam airport, I’m looking at you), but I have found it’s best to remember to be kind and patient. Be kind to the people who are trying to help you fix what’s gone wrong. I stood next to a man at customer service who was so impossibly rude and stubborn I couldn’t help but feel sorry for the agent attempting to help him. For the most part, they are trying to help you and insulting them will certainly not earn you any favors (or potential seats on the next flight out). And, patience is critical here. I always try to remember that eventually I will get home, even if it’s not when I originally thought. So many factors are out of my control and releasing any perceived power over them helps me relax and feel less anxious. And lastly, stuff is just stuff. If they never find my bag then, yes, I will be disappointed (currently they aren’t even sure where it is in the world. literally), but I am safe and at home, which is of course the most important thing.

I hardly took any photos while I was there, and unfortunately my lovely camera is inside that missing bag so I couldn’t even share them with you if I had them. I’m not disappointed by this, however, because I felt even more present and aware without the “burden” of capturing everything perfectly. This idea about hiring a photographer to take pictures of you on vacation (and then deliver 20 “social-media ready” images each morning. Yikes!) sounds somewhat intriguing, and could help solve the specific conundrum of wanting to capture your travels but also wanting to be in the moment. Overall though, I find it too vain and narcissistic. What do you think?

That all said, I had the best time in the US and am so grateful for friends and relationships that I hold very dear to my heart. America, why do you keep them all hostage?! It is nice to be home and I’m savoring time with my sweet husband before I bail on him again this weekend and head to France. More details to come : )

West Coast Bound

I’m on my way to San Fransisco today! I haven’t been since I was nine years old and I’m really looking forward to exploring the city as an adult with some of my very best friends.

I’ve known the above girls since I was in elementary school (and obviously I’ve known Courtney since I was thirteen months old). We’re all within a couple years of one another, though in pretty wildly different stages of life. Laura, second from the left, has lived in the city since last fall and we are eager to storm her apartment and catch up. We haven’t been all together since my wedding this time last year so there will be a lot of gossip, hugging, laughing, and probably crying. Not to mention eating and drinking our way through one of the most culinary cities in the country. I literally cannot wait a day longer.

From there I’ll be heading up the coast to Portland to see Nancy! I’ve never been there but have heard all the best things. Exciting and creative food, coffee, beer, wine, ice cream, donuts, parks, bikes, and historic charm. Count me in!

If you have any tips on either of these cities I would love to hear them. I’ll be taking the next week off but you can always follow me on Instagram.

P.S. These are the same girls who threw me a surprise bachelor party. They’re the best : )

Iceland: Snæfellsnes Peninsula

I had been looking forward to exploring the Snæfellsnes Peninsula the entire trip for reasons I am not entirely sure I can articulate. The limited images I had seen looked unreal (even more unreal than anything we’d seen previously) and I was sure that it would be a place I’d never forget. Sometimes it’s dangerous to put such high expectations on a location, but in this case they were well warranted.

The coastline of the peninsula is dotted with fishing villages and the area as a whole is dominated by the Snæfellsnes mountain, which is further topped by a massive glacier. On a clear day you can even see it from Reykjavik. And although you certainly will pass the wandering tourist, it’s much quieter than the other places we visited in Iceland. We loved the solitude.

 

We stayed at The Old Post Office Guesthouse in Grundarfjörður, which is on the north side of the peninsula. It was a comfortable place to stay but it’s important to note that there is no organized breakfast. There’s a grocery store a short walk down the street where you can pick up provisions, which we would recommend. The local cafe doesn’t open until later in the day so you’ll want to fix something yourself. There’s a saga museum close by where you can enjoy a small breakfast and good coffee; it opens at 9:00.

After hunting down our own morning meal we hit the road to explore the area. We had plans to go whale-watching in the afternoon but when we arrived in Ólafsvík where the boat was set to depart the captain told us that the weather would not be great and we’d probably only see a few dolphins and maybe a whale. Four hours on a rocky boat in the rain sounded less than ideal so we took a hard pass. I was disappointed because it was something I was really looking forward to, but it became clear very quickly that the weather would be perfect on land as opposed to out at sea.

From Ólafsvík we headed west toward the very end of the peninsula. Our guesthouse proprietress told us about a few sights that we should see, the first of which was a lighthouse.

It was at this point that I felt the furthest removed from anything and everything. It was just us out there for a while and we felt so isolated. It’s hard to visualize because there are no trees or shrubs or tall grasses so you can’t see the effects of how windy it was, but the wind was positively howling. Standing there bearing the winds (I can’t imagine if it had been raining…), you can almost grasp how hardy Icelanders are. The landscape is so desolate and barren and inhospitable. It’s really incredible.

I do want to note how rocky and rugged the road is out to the very tip of the peninsula. Our car, which you can see up there, did just fine, but you’ll want to take it slow and pay careful attention to the turns and drops. The view is definitely worth the drive.

From here we drove south and slightly east to get to Hellnar, which had also been recommended to us. We stopped for a coffee and cake and listened to the sea. I would have loved to spend the night here, as it’s so quiet and remote, but it was completely booked by the time we made reservations. You feel like you’re at the end of the earth.

There’s a footpath that connects Hellnar and Arnarstapi that’s especially beautiful in the summertime. We drove to Arnarstapi instead (it’s less than ten minutes by car) and walked along the coast there. We watched the seabirds nestle into the cliff sides and were mesmerized by the waves.

There’s a nice cafe here where you could have lunch or a snack and there’s even a guesthouse should you want to spend the night. we decided to head back toward the hotel since we had been on the road for almost 7 hours at this point. I know that sounds wild since the peninsula is so small but we really tried to cover it all and take our time. Adam made a good point earlier in the day when we were trying to force a few things (breakfast at the cafe, whale watching) that we should let the day come to us and I think it’s a great way to travel. We may start the day or the trip with an itinerary and some points of interest, but it’s important to let activities unfold as they may and be flexible to spontaneity. Once we let the day come to us we had the best time.

We found out shortly after we arrived in Iceland that hitchhiking is a popular way to get around the country. The people are friendly and the distances not too terribly far, so it seems like a natural option for the budget traveler. We agreed that while that may be good for them it was not for us and we would not be picking up any hitchhikers.

On our way back to Grundarfjörður from Arnarstapi we took the mountain pass that we had driven over earlier in the day. It’s a beautiful route that offers a gorgeous view from the top. Just as we started up we saw a girl standing on the side of the road waving her arms obviously looking for a lift. We drove right by, remembering our rule from above. But as we passed her we realized that she had no pack or gear and that this road is a long way up and over. We were worried that she was in trouble and needed help. We pulled over and stopped the car and she began excitedly jumping up and down and waved over her friend who was in a ditch with their packs. We had been duped! She and her friend were Slovenian college students on a shoestring budget, planning to hitchhike around the entire country in just under a month. We broke our own rule and gave them a ride over the pass, dropping them off about five kilometers from their final destination, which was in the opposite direction of where we were going. After telling this story to a friend who is well versed in the art of hitching a ride, apparently that’s Hitchhiking 101: look slightly helpless and alone, ensuring you pull on a few heartstrings.

 

That evening we had dinner at the local restaurant and ended the night playing cards and drinking wine in our room. There was a beautiful sun-shower that we ran outside for, but otherwise it was an uneventful evening. We stayed awake until the sunset at 12:14 and called it a night.

On Friday we left Grundarfjörður and made our way back toward Reykjavik. We stopped by Álafoss Wool Store in Mofellsbær to buy a wool blanket like we had seen at The Old Post Office Guesthouse. It’s a beautiful and cozy reminder of our time in Iceland and I love having the visual in our room of one of our favorite trips.

We then headed to the Blue Lagoon for the remainder of the afternoon. It was the perfect way to end the trip and we left there completely exhausted. It’s touristy and overpriced, sure, but it was a fun way to spend the day. We’d recommend getting there earlier in the afternoon and booking ahead of time so you are guaranteed admission.

We stayed at a hotel by the airport since our flight was so early on Saturday morning, but we drove back into Reykjavik for one last meal. We ate dinner at Matur og Drykkur and it was outstanding. Adam had an entire cod’s head and I had Arctic char for the millionth time. We loved it and would highly recommend a special dinner here.

Oh, Iceland, we love you! You are so beautiful and ethereal, kind and generous. We will be singing your praises for years and years to come.

If you’re interested in visiting Iceland (which you should be!) you can include it as a layover on your trip to Europe. If you fly over on Icelandic Air, you can include an up-to seven-day layover at no extra cost. Getting to and from Iceland, and then of course staying on the island, is very expensive so this is a cost-effective way to include it into your larger itinerary. Definitely worth a look if you’re considering a visit!

Have you been to Iceland? What did you think? It’s such a magical place, I hope you get a chance to see it for yourself someday. In case you’re interested here are the other days of our trip:

Reykjavik and the Golden Circle

Hella to Vík to Jökusárlón

Jökusárlón to Snæfellsnes Peninsula

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Iceland: Jökusárlón to Snæfellsnes Peninsula

Looking through the pictures from Iceland this week has been so refreshing. Switzerland is experiencing a freak heat wave this week and remembering these cool days is a good reminder that things won’t always be this sweaty.

We woke up early for our third full day of the road trip to drive 10 minutes on Highway 1 to Jökusárlón. It’s an ice lagoon that began formed as the Breiðamerkurjökull glacier started receding from the ocean. As of today the glacier has receded 7 kilometers and it’s only moving further away. In another fifty years, they expect the glacier to have completely eroded. It’s incredible to think we are seeing something that our children’s children may never have a chance to see. It made our visit feel sacred. We booked a tour through Zodiac Boat Tours and I would highly recommend it. We left on the first tour of the day (8:45 arrival, 9:15 departure) and we would also recommend that, if you can, you go as early as possible. We were the only people out on the lagoon and it was truly magnificent. The water was so calm and the feeling of isolation really complemented the whole experience. This boat tour was our favorite part of the whole trip (I really mean it this time!) The blue color is the most recently exposed ice, meaning that all the icebergs you see with blue have fallen from the glacier (or broken off from an even larger iceberg) in the last 24 hours. As we sat out by the edge of the glacier we could hear what sounded like thunder but what was really icebergs breaking apart and crashing into the water. Furthermore, when we got closer to some of the larger icebergs we could hear the frantic drip-drip-drip of the icebergs melting. It sounded like rain! We didn’t see anything major but we heard the transformations happening all around us. The black is of course ash from the surrounding volcanoes. The layers and striations tell of a volatile and storied history.

In the picture directly above you can see where the ice changes from an icy blue into white. This berg had just flipped and was now exposing it’s underbelly more or less. The bergs are regularly breaking apart and shifting their center of gravity. It’s a very cool sight.

There were only 6 of us in the boat and we were allowed to walk around a bit (though the boats are really pretty small) and take as many pictures as we liked. Our driver was so knowledgeable and talked to us about the history of not only the lagoon, but of Iceland as a whole. Again, I cannot recommend this tour highly enough. We were out on the water for just over an hour and it was truly magical. Because of the shifting tide, many of the icebergs had clumped together at the mouth of the lagoon and were making their way out under the bridge. We went over to the beach to check out the remains of the icebergs that had recently made it out. What a morning! It was so invigorating to be out on the water and see such beauty. It was unlike anything we’d ever seen or done before. Isn’t that the best part about travel? Being exposed to so many extraordinary sights and experiences. It’s one of the best feelings. It was about 11:30 when we hit the road again, this time heading west. Unfortunately, unless you take the ring road around the entirety of the island, there’s no way to get back west without retracing your steps. So we covered much of the same ground that we had the day before, but we didn’t really mind. It’s about the journey, not just the destination.

We were headed to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, located just south of the Western Fjords and north of Reykjavik. I got the idea to visit this area based on this blog and I am so happy we did. It was beautiful and desolate and really made us feel like we were in another world. I loved it. More hot dogs for lunch and playlists on the go. We ran into some rain on this day, but nothing terrible. The drive from Jökusárlón to the peninsula took about 7 hours, and that includes a couple breaks for stretching our legs and taking pictures of sheep and waterfalls. It sounds like a long time and it did feel long at some points, but it was totally doable and especially pleasant after we passed Reykjavik and began seeing new scenery. Once you get onto the peninsula you can take a surrounding ring road, Highway 54, or take some mountain passes to cut across. These are relatively short, maybe a 10 minute drive, but they are wonderful! Glacial lakes, hidden waterfalls, gloomy clouds–take the mountain pass. We stayed at The Old Post Office Guesthouse in Grundarfjörður, which is a fishing village situated on the north side of the peninsula. It was a nice little town with one hotel, one guesthouse, one restaurant, one grocery store, you get the idea. We stayed there mostly because it was one of the only towns with any availability, and while sharing a bathroom with four other rooms (dorm style!) isn’t our first choice, it ended up being a nice place to stay. The local restaurant, which is right across the street from the hotel, served really good food. We ate their both nights and tried meat stew, fish pasta, fish and chips, and one more thing I can’t recall. It was filled with locals and tourists alike and made for a nice place to wind down after a long day of travel. I’ll share the final part of the road trip, exploring the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, later next week. If you’d like to see more of our trip to Iceland here are a few links:

Reykjavik and the Golden Circle

Hella to Vík to Jökusárlón

On Fear

Iceland: Hella to Vík to Jökusárlón

This day was arguably the most tiring of the trip. We had a long day on the road and had a lot of sights we wanted to see along the way. One might think that getting out every half hour or hour to stretch ones legs and breathe in some fresh air might be rejuvenating, but anyone who has ever done the slow saunter through a city for hours on end knows that the stop-and-go method of travel is truly the most taxing.

That said, it was an incredible day! What began as a very misty, foggy, rainy day turned into a gorgeous day for a drive with bursts of sun coming out in the late afternoon. This post is bursting with pictures so follow after the jump if you’d like to see and read more about our second full day on the road.

Iceland: Reykjavik and The Golden Circle

After doing as much research as we could during our limited planning time, Adam and I decided that we only wanted to spend one full day in Reykjavik. It’s a small town that’s an interesting amalgamation of fishing culture, high-end sportswear shopping, and active nightlife. We stayed in an airbnb in town and liked being able to walk everywhere. We were right by the main shopping street and Hallgrímskirkja, the largest church in Iceland.

We walking around a bit when we got there Saturday evening and immediately set off for Starters (Forétta Barrin in Icelandic) for dinner.

Adam and I lament the lack of any kind of food scene here in Bern. Coming from Charleston this seems less than fair given how forward thinking the food culture was in the Southern city, but still. Every menu here is a variation on the same meat, sauce, and potatoes theme, and it would be nice to have a wider variety of options.

So we were thrilled to eat at Starters. They have lots of different plates for sharing (or not so much: it was hard for me to give up my arctic char, as I knew it was difficult for Adam to grant me a few bites of his perfectly-cooked horse steak), all made up of unique pairings and ingredients. There’s nothing on the menu you can’t pronounce but we still felt that everything was special. We’d highly recommend it.

After dinner we grabbed a couple beers at Kaldi, a cozy beer bar in the center of town. It was so bizarre to walk around well into the evening and have it still be so light outside! Even as we were walking home at 11:30 pm the sun was shining off to the northwest. Therefore, if you’re traveling during the summer months (late May, June, July, early August) and you’re hoping to get any sleep I highly suggest bringing an eye mask with you, especially if your accommodations don’t have blackout shades or the like. Ear plugs are an essential travel staple for us as well.

On Sunday we grabbed coffee and a waffle at Mokka (by the way, custom dictates that you spread jam on the waffle and eat it like toast. who knew?!). We read back issues of British newspapers and made a very loose plan for the day. We walked to Hallgrímskirkja and went up the elevator to see the best views of the city and beyond. It’s a quick ride up and about $5 if you’re interested.

Though many of the stores were closed we did stop in Geysir, a beautifully curated shop filled with wool sweaters, designer clothing, and just about anything that would make one nostalgic for pastoral (or urban) life in Iceland. It’s a pricey boutique, but many of the pieces look timeless.

We ate a leisurely lunch at Prikid before walking to Harpa and the harbor. Harpa is the city’s main concert hall and the architecture is incredible. Covered in geometric, three-dimensional windows, the structure is not short of views or photographic opportunities. It would be lovely to catch a show here, but you can also take a guided tour if you’re interested in seeing the main halls and stages within.

Afterward we strolled around, popped in the photography museum, shopped a flea market, and ate a hot dog because one must, they’re everywhere! We had one almost every day.

That evening we had dinner at Frederiksen Ale House. They had excellent fish and chips and a great beer selection. We called it an early night and headed back to the apartment to do some road trip planning for the next day.

I have a few tips for self-drive tours in Iceland, which we would highly, highly recommend. A lot of people might feel more comfortable with the structure of a guided tour on a bus or minivan, but we preferred to drive ourselves so we could go our own way, take our time, and make whatever stops we wanted. But there are a few things you should keep in mind:

• The roads are narrow and usually only two lanes, even on the main highways (outside of Reykjavik). There are no shoulders either so one should take extra precaution when driving in inclement weather, which can come on suddenly. Thankfully we never went through any terrible storms, but in the colder months I know sudden snowstorms are not uncommon.
• Only stop at turn-offs or designated scenic points. It’s tempting to want to stop and take pictures of everything, but given how narrow the roads are and lack of shoulder, it’s important that you don’t stop on the road and hop out of your car. Every few kilometers or so there are turn-offs and parking areas for just this reason so try to use those instead of putting yourself and others in danger.
• Try to rent a 4-wheel drive if possible. It’s a little more pricey, but the extra security might be worth it to you.
• Don’t bother with toilet paper…unless you need to use the restroom every thirty minutes. There are plenty of places to stop along the way–gas stations, tourist stops, etc. We bought some to use just in case but never did. Plus, there aren’t many trees in Iceland so it would have been a bit tricky logistically….
• Opt for a GPS or mobile hot-spot. We used Google maps on our phone to find our way and it was immensely helpful to have internet in the car. Despite how desolate the country is, you can get a pretty good signal to help you stay on track, or get off the beaten path. It is important, however, to remember how to get your bearings by simply looking around you.
• Bring snacks and lots of water! Iceland is very expensive and stopping for lunch on your road trip can really add up. We packed sandwiches and snacks to eat on the go, supplementing with hot dogs as we went. Apples, cherry tomatoes, chips or crackers, cereal bars, and gummy bears were all handy to have around.
  • On a semi-related note, stop in Duty Free upon arrival. Alcohol is very expensive and we saw everyone stopping here to pick up wine and beer before grabbing their luggage. We grabbed a few of each ourselves (plus some mini bottles of Icelandic vodka for a little taste test) and saved quite a bit of money had we decided to buy it in town.

 

We started our road trip as most people do: visiting the Golden Circle. It’s a popular route with three main stops along the way: Thingvellir National Park, Geyser, and Gullfoss. This post ended up being the most helpful for us because of the layered map and suggestions for detours. Instead of taking Highway 1 to 35 like most people do, we took Highway 1 to 435 and cut across the middle of the tour circle, if you will. As the post mentions, it really was otherworldly and beautiful. It was the perfect way to begin our drive. We kept saying, “I can’t believe this is real” along the way–and said it through the remainder of our trip.

 

Thingvellir National Park is noted for its historical and geographical significance. It’s the site of the world’s first parliament, established around 930 AD. The North American and European tectonic plates are also pulling apart here and you can see some incredible formations. It’s a large park, but there is a stopping point for visitors right by the lake, which is more or less in the center of the park. You can get out and walk around or even scuba if you’d like to see the underwater fissures. It was cold, rainy, and windy this day so we didn’t stay long, but I imagine this would be a lovely stop for a picnic and hiking if you wanted to stay longer.

A quick note about rain gear:

I bought this jacket in Bern last fall when I was in need of a new rain jacket. It was advertised as waterproof and since buying it several months ago it had proved to be nothing but. When we got to Iceland, however, I learned the hard way that it is water resistant, not waterproof. So it got pretty wet and stayed wet, which was uncomfortable. I thought about buying a new jacket while we were there, but after looking at several options we decided that for once it was actually cheaper to buy it in Switzerland. SO, invest in the right gear. I had waterproof pants that were a big help (they were great windbreakers as well) and waterproof hiking boots that were essential. The rocks can gets very slippery when wet and you’ll be doing a lot of walking to see various sites. And layers! I usually wore a t-shirt or long-sleeve shirt, sweater/sweatshirt, fleece, and jacket. Plus a scarf and a hat, pretty much the whole time. I’d also wear jeans and slip waterproof pants over them when I knew we’d be visiting waterfalls or exposed to the rain for long periods of time. You’re probably spending quite a bit of money for this trip and making sure you have the right clothing and footwear is part of that. It’s no fashion show over there; everyone is geared up and just trying to stay protected from the elements, which can be harsh.

 

A little soggy, we got back in the car and headed to Geysir, where the world’s first geyser erupted. It’s been dormant now for quite a while, but it’s close neighbor Strokkur erupts every ten minutes or so. The sideways rain and blustery temperatures made this stop less than pleasant, but we managed to see it three times while we stood. Do be sure to stand upwind : )

We stopped for a hot tea in the restaurant to warm up. There’s a huge gift shop with lots of clothing, gear, and souvenirs for everyone.

 

Road signs will point you on to Gullfoss, which is about 15 minutes away. This stop was almost comical given how cold, windy, and rainy it was when we arrived. It’s the largest waterfall in Europe so we wanted to marvel at it a bit longer, but I think we stayed no more than 15 minutes before hitting the road. It is very beautiful and powerful though so I hope you get a chance to stay longer.

That evening we stayed at Hestheimar Horse Farm just outside of Hella. It was about an hour drive from Gulfoss, situated off of Highway 1. It was secluded and serene and I absolutely loved staying here. We were the only people at the main house so it felt very cozy and personal. After grabbing dinner in nearby Hella (about a 10-minute drive) we changed into pajamas and the complimentary robes and played cards and drank wine in the dining room. We watched the horses through the window and listened to the wind howl outside. It’s one of my favorite memories from the trip. (For reference on daylight hours, the picture of Adam below was taken at 10 pm!)

They have over 160 horses on the farm and are always up for a ride. We mentioned the next morning at breakfast that we’d like to go out for an hour and they were ready to go less than an hour later. It was just Adam and me (his first real ride!) and again, it was very special. I love horses and this was a priority for me.

As for the timing of the Golden Circle, which was something that I was very curious about, on average, it takes about 6 hours or so, stops included. We left Reykjavik at 9:30 and stopped at Reykjavik Roasters for a coffee and breakfast before hitting the road. We arrived at Hestheimar around 6:00. So, about 8 hours? If you are returning to Reykjavik, as many do, then it might take less time. If you have gorgeous weather, then this might take more. I would definitely plan a full day for the tour.

I’ll be sharing the next big day of our road trip next week!

 

Back from Iceland

We’re back from our week in Iceland and I can hardly get my head on straight, not that it was on too tight before we left. I definitely thought that yesterday was Father’s Day, hence this post last Thursday. We had friends over for burgers after the big run and I wished one of them a Happy Father’s Day and he and his wife looked at me like I was nuts, which I am sometimes, yesterday included. Anyway, gratitude is good any day of the week and we should all be thanking the fathers in our life all the time : )

So, back to Iceland: it was amazing. I mean, otherwordly. There was so much beauty everywhere, it was almost overwhelming at times. It was cold, windy, rainy, sunny, slightly warm-ish, breezy, cool, and light all the time. We watched the sun set one night at 12:14 in the morning and knew that it would rise again only 2 hours later. It was so disorienting and made for the most magical lighting.

We drove over 1800 kilometers in 5 days. We listened to countless albums and playlists, plus a little of my own inventive singing and sometimes just silence. We took over 1200 pictures, which I will somehow consolidate into a few impactful travelogues for you. (How?!?) We rode horses and cooed over the sweetest lambs and sheep. We ate buckets of seafood: arctic char, scallops, shrimp, and an entire cod’s head. We walked on the beach, stood on cliffs, and took a boat ride in an iceberg lagoon.

It was the craziest week of travel. There were so many highlights and moments where I thought, “I will remember this forever.” If Iceland isn’t on your travel list, I would highly suggest adding it and moving it as close to the top as you can stand. It’s incredible. And this is coming from a girl whose ideal locale is a warm, sunny beach.

How are you? How was your week? I hope it was lovely, considering that this is one the nicest times of the year. It’s just warm enough for good fun and the days are their longest. I love it.

I’m in and out this week so posting will be spotty, but I’d love to think I’ll get my act together. As I mentioned last week our friends are in town and we will be joining them on a little tour de Suisse. Wishing you and yours a happy summer season.

 

Off for the Week!

We’re headed to Iceland tomorrow! This is that impulsive trip I mentioned a couple weeks ago and everything about coordinating it has been entirely last-minute. We booked every accommodation less than a week before leaving. We weren’t sure about our rental car until Tuesday. This is, in short, not how I like to travel. I’m a planner almost to a fault.

But! Man alive, I am so looking forward to this trip and I know Adam is too. We just need a break. So last-minute plans be damned, we are going to Iceland!

Our plan is to spend two days in Reykjavik and then head out on the open (slightly scary-sounding) road. We want to visit the southern coast, ride horses, visit the western coast and Snæfellsnes Peninsula, and finally stop at the Blue Lagoon before heading back to the airport next weekend. I’m looking forward to relaxing in the evenings and feeling invigorated by the solitude of the countryside. There are 20 hours of sunshine every day this time of year. It’s going to be such an adventure!

I actually had a bit of a hard time finding a lot of information about Iceland, specifically itineraries and tips so if you have any I would love to hear them! This will be a totally new scenery for us, which is very exciting.

I do have a couple posts planned for next week (go me!) so it won’t be totally silent. I hope you have a great week and look for a few updates from me on Instagram.

 

(images 1 and 4 via the Charleston-based photographer Olivia Rae James // images 2 and 3 via NISHAANTISHU)

 

Bon Voyage!

Adam and I head back to the US today. We’ll be spending the next two weeks there, visiting family and spendings lots of quality time with Adam’s dad and mom. It simultaneously feels like no time has passed since we left in March and like it has been the longest year of our life. 

As I have mentioned before, there are so many emotions that encompass what the last five months have been like for us. And every time I think of the chaos and overwhelming feelings I’ve experienced, I remember that they are nothing compared to Adam’s mom. This past Sunday we were of course thinking about our moms and reminiscing about what incredible women they are. Adam’s mom has been so impossibly strong, brave, and courageous through everything and she is a true inspiration to all of us. I can’t wait to give her a big squeeze!

As in the past, this space will probably be pretty quiet for the rest of the month while we’re at home. I might pop in and out but I can’t say what the next two weeks look like so I won’t promise anything. There are loads of archives, however, if you feel inspired to go digging through them : )

Lastly, you know I’m not one for inspirational quotes (I seem to remember posting at length about it here, specifically saying, “These false mantras don’t do a lot for me and sort of make me question the sincerity of those who purport them.” So, let’s just all commit to not committing to anything), but I may have found one that’s really sweet and beautiful and perfect for right now.

There are a lot of directions I could take this in my own life, but I let it sit with you for a bit. That Maya Angelou, she just got us, didn’t she?

I hope you are doing well and feeling well and letting your own light shine bright for others. When you are feeling taxed, what is your initial response? When you are feeling overwhelmed and sad, for whom do you reach? When you are joyous and abundant with happiness and pleasure, how do you celebrate?

Wishing you and yours a very happy spring xo

(image 1 via // image 2 via)